Clwyd Mountaineering Club

THE GALLERY

Intro
The Gallery has recently had a makeover by Colin Struthers and friends involving installation of many new lower offs and some extra bolts. Below is the latest updated information.

Aspect
The main crag is North west facing and the upper crag is North facing.

Conditions
The Gallery faces the sea, dries quickly and can be very pleasant in the evening sunshine. The main crag gets the sun obliquely from late afternoon and doesn’t seem to suffer from seepage although it is exposed to westerly winds. The Upper Crag is exposed and dries quickly.

Access Restrictions
The Gallery main crag is above a public cycle and walk way and there are no access restrictions.
. Approach
From the East (Chester, Llandudno etc.): Exit the Penmaenbach tunnel and after ½ mile come off the A55 expressway at Junction 16A (signposted “Dwygyfylchi”). Park just beyond the gate and cattle grid after about 100 yards.

From the West (Bangor etc.): Come off the A55 expressway at Junction 16 (signposted “Penmaenmawr / Dwygyfylchi” and immediately turn left to Dwygyfylchi. Stay on this winding road for 1 mile until the A55 can be seen and park on the right just before the gate and cattle grid.

To reach the crag from the parking, walk to the A55 expressway and cross carefully (it seems like a race track!) almost immediately. There is a vague path which crosses the central reservation, on the other side of which is the cycle and pedestrian walkway. On reaching this, turn right towards the tunnels and the crag impressively appears after 10 minutes.

1. On A Swing And A Prayer F6b+* 
The first route takes the prominent slab up left to a corner.
(K. Stephens, N. Siddiqui, C.Struthers 07.08.99)

2. Infantile Disorder F6c+** 
Start 3m right of the previous route at quarried rock.
(C. Struthers, N. Siddiqui 06.98)

3. Nil By Mouth F6c+* 22m
Start at undercut rock 3m right of the previous route.
(N. Siddiqui, C. Struthers, R. Siddiqui 18.09.98)

4. Language, Truth and Logic F7a+*
Start at the left end of a grey slab.
(N. Siddiqui,  C. Struthers, N. Colton 29.07.99.)

5. Stagger Lee F7a*
Start at the right end of the grey slab below some vegetation. 
(C. Struthers, N. Siddiqui 02.07.99)

6. Intimate Strangers F7a*
Start just left of a white circle around 2 drilled holes.
(C. Struthers, N. Siddiqui, G. Harrison 05.10.98)

7. Renaissance Man F7a+**
Start at a white streak just right of the painted circle.
(C. Struthers, N. Siddiqui 29.07.99)

8. Fever Pitch F6c+
Start below a small slabby bay.
(N. Siddiqui, C. Struthers 25.07.99)

9. Swiss Tony F6b
Start at a downward pointing fang opposite the lamppost.
(C. Struthers, N. Siddiqui 09.05.99)

10. Criminals of Want F6b+
Start just right of the slab and roof.
(N. Siddiqui, C. Struthers 09.05.99)

11. The View Belongs to Everyone F6b** 30m
Start under the left end of the slab with the white lichen circles. 60m rope essential.
(C. Struthers, N.  Siddiqui 09.05.99).

12. This Land Is Your Land F6c***
Start 2m right of the previous route. 60m rope essential. 
(C. Struthers, N. Siddiqui 25.07.99)

13. Free The Forwyn F6c+*
Start 1m right of the previous route.
(C. Struthers, N. Siddiqui16.05.99.)

14. You Can Do Magic F7a+**
Start 1m right of the ledge on the previous route.
(N. Siddiqui, C. Struthers 18.07.99)

15. Put A Spell On You F7a**
Start at broken rock below the obvious jutting block.
(N. Siddiqui, C. Struthers 04.04.99)

16. Truly, Madly, Steeply F7b**
Start below a bush.
(N. Siddiqui, J. Burton, C. Struthers, R. Siddiqui 11.10.98)

17. Finnegans Wake F7a+
Start 3m right of the previous route.
(C. Struthers, N. Siddiqui 18.07.99)

The next routes climb up to the leftwards rising diagonal fault and then tackle the very steep head wall.

18. The Evil That Men Do F7b**
Start below the prominent corner above the rising fault.
(N. Siddiqui, C. Struthers, K. Stephens 19.08.99)

19. Rock Savage F7b+**
Start at a white circle painted around a rusty bracket.
(N. Siddiqui, C. Struthers, N. Colton, K. Stephens, R. Siddiqui 05.09.99)

20. Ourselves Alone F7a+*
Start 2m right of the rusty bracket and white circle.
(C. Struthers, N. Siddiqui)

Upper Crag
Approach: Follow the cycle / pedestrian walkway further East beyond the tunnel exit for about 100 yards to where there is a grassy bank on the other side with a retaining wall above it.  Wait for a lull in the traffic and make a dash for the sanctuary of this. Quickly follow it up left to climb over the retaining wall and follow the two walls to the bottom of the crag.

There are now 2 belay bolts on the small grey slab below the routes which start in the groove above. Take a 60m rope and 14 quick-draws.

1. Iskra F6b+*** 12B
Follow the groove and start breaking left to the 3rd bolt. Move right into a final corner and then lean left to clip the lower off. Finishes at recently installed dual ring lower-offs.
(C. Struthers, N. Siddiqui 08/99)

2. Maximum R&B   F7a**  10B. 
Start as for Iskra but continue on the right hand line of bolts.
(N. Siddiqui, C. Struthers 29.07.99)