The BMC - National Mountaineering Council for England and Wales.
UKC - Premier UK climbing website with loads of crag info / news / information / forum and photos.
Mountain Weather Information Service
MWIS currently produce forecasts for 8 different mountain areas of the UK as an aid to mountain safety.
NEWSAR - North East Wales Search and Rescue.
NEWSAR is a volunteer Search and Rescue (Mountain Rescue) Organisation operating in North East Wales and mainly covers the counties of Flintshire, Denbighshire, Conwy, Wrexham, Powys and parts of Wirral and Cheshire.
Ogwen Valley Mountain Rescue Organisation
OVMRO continues to be one of the busiest Mountain Rescue Teams in the country assisting the Police and Ambulance authorities with rough terrain search and rescue in Northern Snowdonia.
North Wales Limestone - North Wales Limestone website:
http://www.nuffieldanglesey.org.uk/climbing_wall.asp
Nuffield Climbing Wall at Indefatigable (Llanfair p g on Anglesey).
http://www.conwy.gov.uk/doc.asp?cat=7520&doc=25604
Conwy Council climbing wall in Llanrwst.
http://www.plaspoweradventure.com/
Plas Power adventure climbing wall near Wrexham.
These pages are maintained by our club members and they can only be edited by a club member
The aim of this section is to keep each other informed and up to date regarding crags and other information across our area.
This wiki is broken into sections. Within each are articles which belong to categories.
Crags - to discover more about crags in this wiki, please visit our Crags page, this will primarily be new development or re-development information, please update the content.
Links - to discover a host of useful links related to climbing and more, please visit our Links page.
Trips - Trips are great, find all pending trip and write ups from this page.
]]>It’s been a brilliant event over the previous four incarnations and we are now all geared up for another fantastic festival.
The paragraph below gives a flavour of the festival. Full details can be found on our website http://www.llamff.co.uk/, or just google LLAMFF.
LLAMFF dedicates itself to exploring mountain culture and inspiring adventure, through the medium of film, photography, literature and lectures.Its aim is to stimulate, invigorate and motivate during a long weekend of sensory bliss dedicated to the mountain environment and wild places in general. LLAMFF is one of the few film festivals where you can be in the mountains while at the event, it is also unique in the way it is not afraid to be eclectic and embrace the outdoor culture and enviroment as a whole, this helps to give it an edge that others seem to miss. Match this with the wide range of athletes, journalists, photographers, film makers and activists in the area and you have a unique recipe for a unique film festival.
]]>Skiing/Snowboarding: From the quiet family resort of Puy St Vincent to the extremes of La Grave, the area offers not only great piste skiing but also some great itineraries for ski mountaineering.
Mountain Biking: The Ecrins Massif has over 1000km of MTB trails and hundreds of marked circuits from mid April to late November. Circuits range from 45 minute family trails up to 2 day alpine traverses.
Road Cycling: AlpBase.com is surrounded by mountain cols, including the famous Col de Lautaret (2,057m) regularly used in theTour de France. Other classics include the Col de Galibier (2,642m), and Col d’Izoard (2,360m).
White Water: AlpBase.com is situated only 10kms from the Durance valley, known as “the white water Eldorado of the Southern Alps”. The chalet accommodation at AlpBase.com works out cheaper per head than the local campsites and provides an ideal base for equipment storage and ease of access to the local rivers.
Hike: The local valley offers over 600km of marked paths, from long distance GR’s to local PR walks offering circuits of a few hours. All of which can be either guided or accompanied with transfers and pickups arranged for you.
Via Ferrata: There are 20+ Via Ferrata routes in the Ecrins Massif. They are all easily accessible and between 5 and 50 minutes drive from AlpBase.com. They range from child friendly hour long routes, up to full day mountain itineraries.
Club Meets: A great base for a club to hold a meet or annual trip, with a choice of accommodations from self catering to full board. AlpBase.com is run by UK Expedition Climber Jerry Gore and his wife Jackie. With all their accommodation rentals they provide a personal introduction and brief on the mountain sports available in the Ecrins Massif including comprehensive (family friendly) fact sheets, maps and guidebooks. They also provide a local weather forecast for your week. These services are free-of-charge.
New For 2010- Winter Ice Climbing Courses
All Inclusive Price: £1,350.00
· Based in the Ecrins Massif
· All Levels of ability from beginner to expert
· All Mechanical Uplift
· Full board accommodation inc. packed lunches
· Technical equipment loan
· 5 days guiding by an IFMGA mountain guide (Ratio 1:2)
· Optional evening lectures by Jerry Gore
· Free transport during courses including airport transfers
For further information on any of the details outlined above, please do not hesitate to contact mark@alpbase.com or visit our website www.alpbase.com
Many Thanks
Mark Richardson
UK Agent
AlpBase.com
A55 Limestone
Penmaen Head - There are 7 separate sectors with 58 routes
LLanddulas Cave development is ongoing and an updated list of routes can be accessed here:
http:northwaleslimestone.wetpaint.compageLlandulas Cave
A concise and up-to-date (06/10/09) list of routes at the Gallery can be found here:
http:clwydmc.co.ukwikiFile:THE_GALLERY_short_version.doc
1. Karmic Wind F6a+* 18m.
Cleaned and Re-bolted: M. Burrows. 2008
F.A.: P. Hawkins 1995
2. Mind Light F6a+* 18m New.
F.A.: M. Burrows 2008
3. Spider Mite F6b* 18m New (could do with a couple more bolts, Lee) (it now has them, Mike)
F.A.: T. Shelmerdine 2008
4. Nameless F6c Petzl hangers, not verified, no lower off. Finish on top, bolt belay.
F.A.: Unknown
5. Early Bird E3 5c. Loose.
6. Main Overhang A2. Rotting gear.
7. Guano On Sight E2 5c *.
8. The Wirral Whip F7c+ * New hangers installed and new belay added (Lee)
F.A.: M. Collins 11.86
9. Mudjekeewis F7c ** Hangers (7b+? JR)
F.A.: P. Hawkins 1995
10. Pearl from the Shell F6c+** New resin bolts Oct. 2007. Twin Bolt lower-off.
F.A.: T. Hodgeson, S. Chesslet 27.6.84
11. Sticky Fingers F7b+*. New resin bolts Oct 2007. Twin bolt lower-off. Shares lower-off with Pearl. F.A.: T. Shelmerdine 1996 (grade about right, pete)
12. Searching F6c+ * New resin bolts Oct 2007. Twin Bolt lower-off. Badly positioned bolts, although last bolt on El Tigre can be clipped with a long draw for the moves to the belay. Now with an extra bolt (9/9/9)
F.A.: T. Hodgeson, S. Chesslet, P. Custy 27.6.84
13. El Tigre F7b * Technical.
F.A.: P. Hawkins 1998. This newly bolted version: T. Chamings. T. Shelmerdine. 2008
14. PC Wimpout F6a+* Cleaned and re-equipped. T. Shelmerdine, N. Clacher, M. Burrows 07/08
F.A. at E2 5c: T. Hodgeson, S. Chesslet, P. Custy 27.6.84.
The next 3 routes start below the cave ledge.
15. Grog and the Donkey F6b+.** (5B) New.
F.A.: T. Shelmerdine, N. Clacher 09/08
16. Afterglow F6a+ * (5B)
Cleaned and retro-bolted: T. Shelmerdine, N. Clacher, M. Burrows 08/08
F.A. at E2 5c: T. Hodgeson, S. Chesslet, P. Custy 27.6.84.
17. Turtle Tripler F6b (6B) New. F.A.: Ria Roberts, T. Shelmerdine 01.06.09
Forgotten Sun Area:
1. White Honkey F6b+ - re-bolted with resin bolts 05/06/09. Shares lower off with Ralarwdins
2. Ralarwdins F6b - good staples now with clip in lower offs installed.
3. Stretcharmstrong F6c+ - good staples. New lower offs installed 02/06/09
4. The Man with the Indiarubber Head F6a - good staples
5. Udder Head F6a - good staples
6. Name of the Pose F6a+ - good staples. Now with an independant start and extra bolt.
7. Clipterfyn F5+ - New Route. (I. Andrews, M.Doyle 29/05/09)
8. Poet Lariat F6a - New Route. Start at the white streak to gain the ledge. (M. Doyle 03/05/09)
9. Not Runout Groove F5+ * New. An alternative start to Runout Groove at a more consistent grade. Start by clipping the first bolt of Field of Dreams and trend left to mantle the ledge. Pull right easily to access the groove. M. Doyle, M. Lally 02/06/09
10. Runout Groove. F6b*The original Way. Now fully bolted. Start as for Field of Dreams and clip the first 3 bolts of that route before continuing in the groove.
11. Field of Dreams F6b+ - New bolts
12. Construction of Meaning. F7a - Start as for Field of Dreams and trend right above the cave to climb a seemingly blank wall. (T.Shelmerdine, N. Clacher)
13. Crack of Dawn F6a+ New route. Start at a crack at the left end of the scooped cave by the tree. (N. Clacher, T. Shelmerdine, 12/03/09)
14. Gone Down Under F7b No Bolts - needs re-equipping but doesn’t seem worth the trouble. (P. Smith 1998)
15. Prime the Pump F7b ** Good staples.(M.Griffiths 1995)
16. Pump Action F7b+ (P. Hawkins 1998) (bottom three bolts replaced - feels like 7a/7a+ not 7b+, Lee. I agree, prob only 6c+, pete, how did you get it so wrong perry!). Now fully re-bolted with a chain lower-off.
17. Trail of the Snail F6b Re-bolted 06/09
18. Forgotten Sun F6b+ - good staples. Now with an extra bolt to start.
19. Not Miss Whiplash (was yet another “Nameless”) F6c - good staples
20. Duckworth Lewis F6b+ New route. Start just left of cave mouth. (N.Clacher, T. Shelmerdine 11/03/09)
21. Milo F6b New route. Start at Cave Mouth. (N. Clacher, T. Shelmerdine 08/06/09)
]]>Intro
The Gallery has recently had a makeover by Colin Struthers and friends involving installation of many new lower offs and some extra bolts. Below is the latest updated information.
Aspect
The main crag is North west facing and the upper crag is North facing.
Conditions
The Gallery faces the sea, dries quickly and can be very pleasant in the evening sunshine. The main crag gets the sun obliquely from late afternoon and doesn’t seem to suffer from seepage although it is exposed to westerly winds. The Upper Crag is exposed and dries quickly.
Access Restrictions
The Gallery main crag is above a public cycle and walk way and there are no access restrictions.
.
Approach
From the East (Chester, Llandudno etc.): Exit the Penmaenbach tunnel and after ½ mile come off the A55 expressway at Junction 16A (signposted “Dwygyfylchi”). Park just beyond the gate and cattle grid after about 100 yards.
From the West (Bangor etc.): Come off the A55 expressway at Junction 16 (signposted “Penmaenmawr / Dwygyfylchi” and immediately turn left to Dwygyfylchi. Stay on this winding road for 1 mile until the A55 can be seen and park on the right just before the gate and cattle grid.
To reach the crag from the parking, walk to the A55 expressway and cross carefully (it seems like a race track!) almost immediately. There is a vague path which crosses the central reservation, on the other side of which is the cycle and pedestrian walkway. On reaching this, turn right towards the tunnels and the crag impressively appears after 10 minutes.
1. On A Swing And A Prayer F6b+*
The first route takes the prominent slab up left to a corner.
(K. Stephens, N. Siddiqui, C.Struthers 07.08.99)
2. Infantile Disorder F6c+**
Start 3m right of the previous route at quarried rock.
(C. Struthers, N. Siddiqui 06.98)
3. Nil By Mouth F6c+* 22m
Start at undercut rock 3m right of the previous route.
(N. Siddiqui, C. Struthers, R. Siddiqui 18.09.98)
4. Language, Truth and Logic F7a+*
Start at the left end of a grey slab.
(N. Siddiqui, C. Struthers, N. Colton 29.07.99.)
5. Stagger Lee F7a*
Start at the right end of the grey slab below some vegetation.
(C. Struthers, N. Siddiqui 02.07.99)
6. Intimate Strangers F7a*
Start just left of a white circle around 2 drilled holes.
(C. Struthers, N. Siddiqui, G. Harrison 05.10.98)
7. Renaissance Man F7a+**
Start at a white streak just right of the painted circle.
(C. Struthers, N. Siddiqui 29.07.99)
8. Fever Pitch F6c+
Start below a small slabby bay.
(N. Siddiqui, C. Struthers 25.07.99)
9. Swiss Tony F6b
Start at a downward pointing fang opposite the lamppost.
(C. Struthers, N. Siddiqui 09.05.99)
10. Criminals of Want F6b+
Start just right of the slab and roof.
(N. Siddiqui, C. Struthers 09.05.99)
11. The View Belongs to Everyone F6b** 30m
Start under the left end of the slab with the white lichen circles. 60m rope essential.
(C. Struthers, N. Siddiqui 09.05.99).
12. This Land Is Your Land F6c***
Start 2m right of the previous route. 60m rope essential.
(C. Struthers, N. Siddiqui 25.07.99)
13. Free The Forwyn F6c+*
Start 1m right of the previous route.
(C. Struthers, N. Siddiqui16.05.99.)
14. You Can Do Magic F7a+**
Start 1m right of the ledge on the previous route.
(N. Siddiqui, C. Struthers 18.07.99)
15. Put A Spell On You F7a**
Start at broken rock below the obvious jutting block.
(N. Siddiqui, C. Struthers 04.04.99)
16. Truly, Madly, Steeply F7b**
Start below a bush.
(N. Siddiqui, J. Burton, C. Struthers, R. Siddiqui 11.10.98)
17. Finnegans Wake F7a+
Start 3m right of the previous route.
(C. Struthers, N. Siddiqui 18.07.99)
The next routes climb up to the leftwards rising diagonal fault and then tackle the very steep head wall.
18. The Evil That Men Do F7b**
Start below the prominent corner above the rising fault.
(N. Siddiqui, C. Struthers, K. Stephens 19.08.99)
19. Rock Savage F7b+**
Start at a white circle painted around a rusty bracket.
(N. Siddiqui, C. Struthers, N. Colton, K. Stephens, R. Siddiqui 05.09.99)
20. Ourselves Alone F7a+*
Start 2m right of the rusty bracket and white circle.
(C. Struthers, N. Siddiqui)
Upper Crag
Approach: Follow the cycle / pedestrian walkway further East beyond the tunnel exit for about 100 yards to where there is a grassy bank on the other side with a retaining wall above it. Wait for a lull in the traffic and make a dash for the sanctuary of this. Quickly follow it up left to climb over the retaining wall and follow the two walls to the bottom of the crag.
There are now 2 belay bolts on the small grey slab below the routes which start in the groove above. Take a 60m rope and 14 quick-draws.
1. Iskra F6b+*** 12B
Follow the groove and start breaking left to the 3rd bolt. Move right into a final corner and then lean left to clip the lower off. Finishes at recently installed dual ring lower-offs.
(C. Struthers, N. Siddiqui 08/99)
2. Maximum R&B F7a** 10B.
Start as for Iskra but continue on the right hand line of bolts.
(N. Siddiqui, C. Struthers 29.07.99)
There are 7 separate sectors which can be accessed via the public footpath at the top layby parking by the Gladedale apartment development which replaced the hotel 70 degrees.
Mike Doyles involvement has been with 29 routes listed below mainly on Flowstone and Expressway Walls. Norman Clacher has been involved in developing the great majority of the other routes and on Penmaenrhos Wall particularly. The total route tally is currently 58.
Some lower-off bolts are already showing signs of wear especially where they are shared by routes.
Please use you own quick draws for lowering off as much as possible (last person threads) to minimise wear.
After a clean up by the CMC the place is looking clean and attractive. Please take your litter home and pick up any you see. Thanks.
The stuck-on holds are actually quite sound and have had some heavy use. They also give some of the routes their character.
A guide book for the “A55” sport climbing crags is being produced and will also include Castle Inn, Llanddulas Cave, The Gallery, Notice Board Crag and Penmaenbach quarry.
It is not possible to be objective when grading routes when so closely involved in cleaning and working them so feedback on grades is welcome as is feedback on quality and any other issues, please send to mjdoyle1[at]yahoo.com, replacing [at] with @
Max length of routes - 25 metres.
Sectors are listed R . L as you go down the steps from the lay-by.
The sectors are described R to L as approached coming down the steps from the car parking.
PENMAENRHOS WALL
FLOWSTONE WALL
RED WALL
QUARRY WALL
WEN WALL
RAILWAY TUNNEL WALL
EXPRESSWAY WALL
These routes share lower offs: 1&2 6&7 8&9. Routes 8 & 9 share the same start.
Routes 10 & 11 share the same start. Route 8 is direct and route 9 trends right from the 3rd bolt.
Image:clwydianAutumn09ThumbailImage.jpg
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