View Penmaen Head
Development of this crag complex is now substantially complete.
There are 7 separate sectors which can be accessed via the public footpath at the top layby parking by the Gladedale apartment development which replaced the hotel 70 degrees.
Mike Doyles involvement has been with 29 routes listed below mainly on Flowstone and Expressway Walls. Norman Clacher has been involved in developing the great majority of the other routes and on Penmaenrhos Wall particularly. The total route tally is currently 58.
Some lower-off bolts are already showing signs of wear especially where they are shared by routes.
Please use you own quick draws for lowering off as much as possible (last person threads) to minimise wear.
After a clean up by the CMC the place is looking clean and attractive. Please take your litter home and pick up any you see. Thanks.
The stuck-on holds are actually quite sound and have had some heavy use. They also give some of the routes their character.
A guide book for the “A55” sport climbing crags is being produced and will also include Castle Inn, Llanddulas Cave, The Gallery, Notice Board Crag and Penmaenbach quarry.
It is not possible to be objective when grading routes when so closely involved in cleaning and working them so feedback on grades is welcome as is feedback on quality and any other issues, please send to mjdoyle1[at]yahoo.com, replacing [at] with @
Max length of routes - 25 metres.
Sectors are listed R . L as you go down the steps from the lay-by.
Sector Overview
The sectors are described R to L as approached coming down the steps from the car parking.
PENMAENRHOS WALL
FLOWSTONE WALL
RED WALL
QUARRY WALL
WEN WALL
RAILWAY TUNNEL WALL
EXPRESSWAY WALL
Category:A55 Limestone
Category:Crags
